Scoring Saw Adjustments

Adjusting a scoring blade on panel saw is critical to achieving clean cuts on laminated panels and preventing chipping.

Do you know why the scoring blade on a panel saw turns in the opposite direction to the main blade? Because if it turned in the same direction, the teeth would cut through the underside laminate on exiting the material, the same as the main blade teeth. As the underside laminate is not supported by material underneath it, and as it is brittle, chip out could/would occur. Turning in the opposite direction, the teeth enter through the laminate and exit through the chipboard core.

Why does NikMann panel saw use split scoring blades instead of tapered teeth blades?

Because a tapered tooth cuts wider or narrower depending on how far it penetrates the material. No panel is completely flat.

If there is any gap between workpiece and table, the tapered tooth penetrates less, cuts narrower than the main blade and chip out results. Tapered teeth can only be used successfully in conjunction with a pressure beam.

Maybe you knew all that, but many customers do not. It is worth throwing in such points during a sales conversation to impress your customer with your understanding of your machine.

Adjusting the Scoring Blade:

✅ Identify your shims: Each manufacturer provides a different combination. Scoring saws generally have an adjustability of 0.8mm, from 2.8 to 3.6mm. A typical combination of shims is 3 x 0.2mm, 1 x 0.1mm and 2 x 0.05mm.;
✅ Main Blade: If your main blade has a 3.2mm kerf, pack the scorer up to 3.3mm for the first test;
✅ Setting width: Don't think of it as setting width and alignment, think of it as setting two alignments - the right side of the scorer with the right side of the main blade, the left side of the scorer with the left side of the main blade.
✅ Right side: Align the right side of the scorer with the right side of the main blade, using the lateral adjustment nut;
✅ Left side: align the left side of the scorer with the left side of the main blade using the shims.

Precision in woodworking and carpentry is the hallmark of true craftsmanship. To ensure consistent accuracy in every project, keeping your tools—especially your panel saw—in top condition is essential.

What can influence the setting of the scoring saw apart from the kerf of the main blade?

✅ Main blade vibrations. (They all flutter to some extent.) A 3.2mm kerf blade can cut as much as 3.5mm & free cut. If you line up the scoring saw with the main blade and then exaggerate the free cut on the sliding table side, you would have to move the scoring saw over to the right to realign. If you then tried cutting on the rip fence side, the blade would be too far over to the right.
✅ In fact we are talking differences of less than 0.05mm. With more free cut left, you would in fact take maybe a 0.05mm shim out of the scoring saw, with more free cut right, you would move the blade a minute fraction to the left, and possibly remove another shim.
✅ When the saw unit titts to 45 degrees the scoring saw must normally be readjusted sideways. The tilt axis is independent of the free cut on the sliding table/rip fence. When the scorer alignment takes account of the free cut, the two blades are slightly out of alignment vis-avis the tilt axis. As the blades ti1t, this misalignment in the horizontal plane becomes a misalignment in the vertical plane. Thus the scorer must be either 'raised' (moved to the left) or '"lowered: (moved to the right) when tilted to .45 degrees.

The influence of the free cut on the scoring saw setting explains why it is essential to carry out the other Four Checks before adjusting the scoring saw.